Typ43

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Aktuelle Zeit: 15 Okt 2018, 13:23

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BeitragVerfasst: 14 Mär 2018, 18:56 
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Praktikant
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Registriert: 13 Sep 2017, 09:26
Beiträge: 47
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Ok so i started the work with changing the timing belt, waterpump, radiator etc.. in -10C and snow.. yay!
But i need to get it done soon so i can focus on the other stuff.
The engine is an code WE, 2.2L

Anyway i got the water pump and radiator removed, but then i figured out i need to remove the lower pulley on the crank correct?
Question 1, do i need to remove all the bolts? 4small and 1 big in the center, or will only the center do?

Also i found out i need some sort of tool to hold this pulley correctly, as it slipped a little.

So question 2, does these timing marks look correct?
i think i manage to get them where they should be, but im not 100% sure..

Bild

Bild

Question 3: Any tips on how i can make the pulley stand still?
If i somehow can work it out without special tools? Also a friend of mine has a tool for the 20V, but i guess that wont work or?

Bild


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BeitragVerfasst: 14 Mär 2018, 21:46 
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Seniorchef
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Registriert: 26 Dez 2006, 21:36
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Hi,

You just need to loosen the big one, not the other four smaller ones.
If you want to loosen it and later on fix the big one again, you need a special fixation device.

VW called this #2084, you can find it here (earlier posted by Jörg in the thread „Werkzeuge“ Gegenhalter for Purchase, or you are making you own device following the instruction from our homepage do it yourself
I did it on my own, you just need the steel, in best case a turning machine, a welding machine and few hours to get it done. It works very well :wink: :up:

The marking on the camshaftwheel should be on the same level as the sealing surface. Taking the angels of view into account, I would say the markings are ok... Maybe somebody else can confirm or correct me...

Cheers
Maic

_________________
Audi 100 CS 5E RHD Meteor EZ´82 ex-UK
Audi 100 GL 5E Saturn EZ´81 "Voll"
Audi 100 Avant CD 5E Heliosblau EZ´82 Generationenprojekt ex-Österreich
Audi 200 5T Alpinweiss EZ´80 aka "Papamobil"
Audi 200 5T Heliosblau EZ´83 ex-Schweiz
Audi 5000 turbo Gobi EZ´83 ex-US
Audi 4000 S quattro Alpinweiss EZ´84 ex-US
Audi Cabrio Mingblau Perleffekt EZ´97 "Mamamobil"
Audi quattro Amazonasblau EZ´83 ex-US
MB 350SE W116 Byzanzgold EZ´73
VW Passat Variant GT Syncro Lhasa EZ´87


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BeitragVerfasst: 14 Mär 2018, 22:36 
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Registriert: 29 Dez 2006, 11:15
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Hello!

Yes, position of timing marks looks fine so far.

Please see also Michael's repair manual. It is in German language, but has lots of pictures. Tightening torque for central screw of crankshaft pulley is 350 Nm and applies only when extension tool #2079 is used in alignment with torque wrench. If you are using the torque wrench only, tightening torque is 450 Nm.

Greeitings,

Andreas

_________________
Audi 100 Coupé S, F105, 1976, malachitmetallic
Audi 100 LS fuelinjection, F104, 1976, atlantikmetallic, USA-Export
Audi 200 5T, Typ 43, 1981, meteormetallic, Italien-Export
Audi 5000 S fuelinjection, Typ 43, 1983, gobimetallic, USA-Export
Audi quattro, Typ 85, 1985, tizianrotmetallic, USA-Export
Porsche 944 S2 Targa, 1991, zyklamperleffekt


KEEP AND SAVE IT FACTORY ORIGINAL!


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BeitragVerfasst: 17 Mär 2018, 17:48 
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Praktikant
Praktikant

Registriert: 13 Sep 2017, 09:26
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Wohnort: Norway
Okey something went terribly wrong.. but i cant figure out what..
So i changed all the belts, looked over the markings, seems correct as the cam is lined up towards the topcover, the lower wheel is at the nob in the cover, and the 0 flywheel marker is correct.
I filled up the car with warm water into the system as the car has been sitting out without coolant for 1 day, i took and turned the engine 2 turns by hand with ease.
Started up the car and it instantly started up.

But the engine is giving me this loud RRRRRRRR sound, but no knocking or ticking but something not sounding good.
Also it has started to spill out oil somewhere around the water pump?

What in earth did i do wrong? i dont get how i could have set the cam wheel 180degrees wrong either?
I checked with taking out a spark plug and when the cam is in the correct position the pistons are all the way down, is this correct?

Bild

Bild

Bild

Bild


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BeitragVerfasst: 17 Mär 2018, 18:10 
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Praktikant
Praktikant

Registriert: 13 Sep 2017, 09:26
Beiträge: 47
Wohnort: Norway
okey this went to fast.. i found out i forgot 2 screws with some lenghts on that is holding the rear cover in place.. possible also the oil pump? aka that is why it leaks.
also i think i found out that cylinder one should be on top when the cam is in the correct possition right? its now in the buttom.. so thats probably the error


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BeitragVerfasst: 17 Mär 2018, 19:01 
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Seniorchef
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Registriert: 26 Dez 2006, 21:36
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Wohnort: Neuburg an der Donau
Hi,

from my point of view there is now way a 180 degree mismatch between cam and crank, as both marks are on the correct position. Did you take of the camshaftwheel? I am asking because both sides have marks. If there would be a 180 turn, I don‘t believe that it would fire up at all...

The noise was likely caused by a scratch of the camshaftwheel at the backcover.

Keep us posted about your progress

Good luck

Maic

_________________
Audi 100 CS 5E RHD Meteor EZ´82 ex-UK
Audi 100 GL 5E Saturn EZ´81 "Voll"
Audi 100 Avant CD 5E Heliosblau EZ´82 Generationenprojekt ex-Österreich
Audi 200 5T Alpinweiss EZ´80 aka "Papamobil"
Audi 200 5T Heliosblau EZ´83 ex-Schweiz
Audi 5000 turbo Gobi EZ´83 ex-US
Audi 4000 S quattro Alpinweiss EZ´84 ex-US
Audi Cabrio Mingblau Perleffekt EZ´97 "Mamamobil"
Audi quattro Amazonasblau EZ´83 ex-US
MB 350SE W116 Byzanzgold EZ´73
VW Passat Variant GT Syncro Lhasa EZ´87


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BeitragVerfasst: 20 Mär 2018, 19:52 
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Praktikant
Praktikant

Registriert: 13 Sep 2017, 09:26
Beiträge: 47
Wohnort: Norway
Alright, so i worked everything out and its now working like a champ :)

https://youtu.be/iCqnA8IXz7E

The problem was firstly that i forgot 2 screws in the backcover that also holds the oilpump, screwed those 2 back in and it stopped spilling oil all over the place.
The noice was caused by the backcover hitting something slightly, bent it a little and the noise was gone :)
Also suddenly the car died and did not recive any fuel or spark.. i think this was caused by a bad connection at the coil as after i took of the plus and minus connections on the coil it all worked again, dno.
Just need to re open the generator and have a look on the soldering, got some plans on how to keep them inplace as it stopped charging after some revs.


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